FAQ

We can usually perform the work within a few working days of authorization and it usually takes about 3-4 hours to install.

Yes. It is easier for us to work with an unfinished basement and we can also access the entire slab-wall joint making the system more effective.

Look in the basement and in the attic for a vertical 3″-4″ white PVC pipe and let us know if it:
a. extends from either the sump cover or the slab
b. begins at the ceiling of the basement
c. terminates in the attic or continues through the roof

The fan is UL listed, meaning that it is designed for outdoor use. There is a screen at the exhaust (outside) end of the system pipe that prevents debris from entering the system. No rain cover is necessary on this pipe, and, in fact, could be detrimental. In the winter, warm moist air that is drawn from under the slab can condense on a rain cover or cap forming ice, thus blocking the system air flow. In addition, there is more water from sub-slab moisture than any rainwater entering the exhaust end and the fan is designed with Teflon bearings to operate while soaked internally with water

A follow-up test should be performed after airing out the house by opening basement and first floor windows and doors for at least 2-3 hours and then closing the house overnight prior to the retest. If the residual radon is so removed, you can retest the following day, otherwise wait 2-3 weeks for the residual radon to decay. Further retesting every year for the first few years is recommended by the EPA.

Because the fan is designed with Teflon bearings to operate while soaked internally with water, it is normal with some homes to hear a gurgling sound from inside the fan due to condensation.

About as much as a new refrigerator motor.

First make sure that the fan switch is on and then reset all circuit breakers and all GFCI switches, which look like white outlets with a black test button and a red reset button. If the liquid levels are still exactly even then call us back for a new fan.

A manometer gauge usually installed on the pipe stack (bearing the system identification label) is the only system indicator that requires monitoring. Since the fan is the only active component of the system, this gauge indicates whether or not the system is running. Any disparity in the fluid levels of the manometer indicates that the fan is operating properly. However the only way to know if the radon is being abated is to perform a radon test. A follow-up retest for our work can be provided by the company that performed the original test or reliable inexpensive test kits may be purchased at Home Depot or Loews. Further retesting every year for the first few years is recommended by the EPA.

The fan has a 5-year warranty from the manufacturer, not from us. If the fan is defective within the first 3 months after installation, we will replace the fan at no charge within a 100 mile radius of our office. Between 3 months and 5 years there will be a service charge to replace the fan or you can call us for an RMA number and mail in the old fan electrical cover, metal fan label, and your return address for a free replacement fan.

Occasionally, a detectable odor will be apparent for only a few days immediately after system installation. The odor is caused by drying of the urethane caulk required by the EPA for use in the system. Urethane caulk retains its flexibility after it is dry, thereby ensuring the system integrity.

Yes. Within a few hours of the fan being turned off, the negative indoor pressure begins to draw radon into the house. The fan draws about 60 watts and costs about $1.50 to $2 per month to operate.

The EPA health risks are based upon 24 hour exposures for 72 years, so relatively short-term exposures, even for elevated radon levels, should not be significant

The plumber needs to cut the caulk seal around the sump cover and any cover penetrations, unbolt it and, after replacing the pump, reseal our sump cover and penetrations with silicone or urethane caulk. Any PVC pipes that are cut must be rejoined and glued with straight PVC connectors.